Prague 2

On our second full day, we went to the Jewish Museum, which is not one building, but rather a number of synagogues, a hall for ceremonies and a Jewish cemetery.  The area was the Jewish ghetto for about 800 years, until Joseph II gave them civil rights and the wealthier people moved out. The synagogues display objects, with a theme for each synagogue. It’s really well done – the Ceremonial Hall has a series of maybe fifteen large paintings, dating from the late eighteenth century, acting as a sort of strip cartoon explanation of Jewish burial societies and practices. It may sound odd, but it was a fascinating look at a vanished world.

The most moving was the Pinkas synagogue, built in 1535 but largely destroyed in 1941. It has been reroofed and the walls are entirely covered with the names and dates of birth and death of around 80,000 Czech Jews who were murdered during the holocaust. It needs something like that to bring the numbers home to you; you simply can’t comprehend  80,000 without some visual representation. There are also drawings made by children in Terezin, sometimes with photos of the children, which are terribly moving.

The Jewish cemetery is the famous site, and certainly should be seen, but isn’t that surprising to anyone who has seen the City of London church graveyards. Or even Haworth. No wonder the Brontes had short lives, living next to a graveyard so full of corpses that the ground level is feet higher than the surrounding area.

Jewish cemetery

The synagogues were all heated, and Phil commented that it was ironic - he had to keep on his beanie, whereas yesterday in the churches he had to take it off, and they were bone chillingly cold, much colder than out doors. Still, at least he had better manners than a lot of the male visitors, who couldn’t be bothered to show a bit of basic politeness.

Afterwards, we went to St Agnes’ Convent. It’s Gothic, but very much restored – well, in fact it was a complete ruin. St Agnes was the sister of an early ruler, in about the eleventh century. It has a terrific exhibition of early Czech religious painting and sculpture. It was very sophisticated, and looked towards the Netherlands, France and Italy rather than eastwards. There was a brilliant set of paintings for an altarpiece from the fifteenth century, I’d definitely take those home.

Then we  had a gluhwein and some potato crisps in the old town square, and got changed for the opera again. We had an early meal in a vegetarian place – Czech cuisine is a bit heavy on the meat and light on the vegetables, and one begins to feel a little stuffed.

Gate at the end of the Charles Bridge

The opera this time was Tosca. There are surtitles in English and Czech, not that we need them desperately for either of the operas we saw; but when we went to see Fidelio, which we didn’t know at all, in Budapest, it was sung in German with surtitles in Hungarian; which I have to say was something of a challenge.  Anyway, Tosca was really good; excellent singers, and a well acted Scarpia. Tosca was pretty wooden, I’m afraid.

Almost all of the people we’ve dealt with are able to speak English, and English immersion schools are advertised. I suppose Czech is like Dutch, a relatively minority language, so you need a second one. Everyone seems instantly able to identify us as British, it’s a bit unnerving. Except for the lady who said “Dos vidanya” to Phil. I think he must have looked offended, because she followed it immediately with a “Sorry!”  It really bothered him. He wondered if he could really look like an oligarch. I pointed out that I was the let down – if he was a well off Russian, I’d be wearing a fur coat, masses of jewellery and be at least thirty years younger.

We had a bit longer to have a look at Wenceslas Square and saw the Jan Palach memorial at the end. I really like Prague. The painted buildings, arcades and narrow alleys in the Old Town are charming and the site is terrific. There are many interesting Art Deco buildings too, and lots of pedestrian only bits, which makes it thoroughly pleasant to wander round.

We tried to visit the Bethlehem chapel, where Jan Hus preached, but it was closed. It was open every other day in February, so we really had managed to pick a bad day.

The third full day in Prague, we took the metro to the Vysehrad fortress.  It’s the original castle, high up on a bluff over the river, on the other side to the present castle. As it was the fortress and palace of the early medieval kings of Bohemia, it has a mystical significance for Czechs. I wanted to go because “Vysehrad” is one of the movements of Ma Vlast.  However, it was a highlight of the trip, and we both really enjoyed it. 

Massive gate into the fort at Vysehrad

View from Vysehrad

Virtually all the medieval stuff  has been destroyed, but it was turned into an enormous artillery fort in the eighteenth century, and it’s now a lovely park, with lots of interesting features. The National cemetery is there and we found the graves of Smetana himself, Dvorak and Suk. I was quite excited. 

Smetana's grave

It was a glorious day, frosty to start with but brilliantly sunny, and spring like, with birds and flowers. We even saw a woodpecker up quite close.

The views of Prague and the river were spectacular, and the café did us a typically powerful coffee.

View from Vysehrad, St Vitus' cathedral and the castle in the distance.

We walked down off the bluff and got a tram to the Veletrzni Palac. This is where the National Gallery displays its collection from the nineteenth, twentieth and twenty first centuries. They own a fabulous collection of impressionists and later French art, including some striking sculptures by Bourdelle. There are more Picassos than in Malaga. I’m having Van Gogh’s “Green Wheat”. It was painted when he was in the asylum in St Remy, but apparently on a good day, as it’s calm and peaceful, as you can imagine by the main colour being green. Phil wanted it too, but I beat him to it. He chose a Monet instead.

There’s a very comprehensive collection of Czech art, and design works are also shown, with models and plans of modernist buildings from the twenties and thirties. It just shows how forward thinking the Czech independent state was; and in fact the Veletrzni  Palac itself is a superb modernist building, designed for a trade fair in the thirties.

The last night here, we went to a concert in the Municipal House. The concert was good (the Prague Symphony Orchestra and Valentina Lisitsa) and the municipal house is just brilliant. It’s the most amazing Art Deco extravaganza you can imagine, beautifully restored.  If you ever go to Prague, don’t miss it – there are restaurants, so you don’t have to go to a concert. It’s better than the astronomical clock, I’m telling you. And a glass of prosecco only sets you back a quid. 

Prague

This is our third attempt to visit Prague; each time before, something happened to stop us, so third time lucky. We're staying in the centre of the old town, just off the Old Town Square, which is lovely; on arrival we had a potter round to  get orientated and saw the astrological clock. I liked Death turning over his hour glass. You have to remind yourself how very old it is. 

Hotel Rott - a success.

Today, we crossed the Charles Bridge and set off for the castle. Prague is pretty busy, with large parties of young people milling around, and although it is quite chilly, we are not glad to be here in summer.

On the way to the castle we got distracted by Saint Nicholas Church, and went in for a look round. It is rococo; it's unbelievable elaborate, with a plethora of enormous sculptures all covered in gold. The ceiling was interesting because it's frescoed with a trompe l'oeil effect that was truly remarkable. It was genuinely difficult to tell what was a feature of the architecture and what was just painted. The organ was staggering; it was covered with massive golden cherubs and angels playing instruments. Phil and I wandered about muttering to each other.

"Have you seen that ? "

"Yes, hideous, isn't it?"

I'm not sure how much  church  visiting we're likely to do here, as they are virtually all rococo or baroque, and there seems to be a penchant for bones and reliquaries. We did make a rapid tour of the Loreto, which was not quite as bad as Saint Nicholas as a building, but had a treasury full of monstrosities, with unbelievable quantities of diamonds and other jewels. One thing the Loreto had, though, which made the visit worthwhile, was a statue of a crucified bearded lady. The sculptor used a real dress and a real hair beard. Apparently it was some saint who prayed to preserve her virginity, and got given a beard. She was crucified by her own father, for reasons which escaped me. It was horribly funny, as though Conchita Wurst had had a stroke of inspiration for a music video.

It was quite a haul up to the castle, but well worth it. All around are large palaces of the noble families, now galleries or government offices or embassies, and there are wide squares and lots of gardens. The old Royal Palace was the best bit; it still had the huge tiled stoves, actually working, which was nice as the cathedral was freezing. There is a magnificent great hall with a most unusual vaulted stone ceiling, very impressive. 

Tiled Stove

There is a replica of the crown of the kingdom of Bohemia on show. Because the crown is so old, the stones are not cut, but they are huge. Best of all you can see the actual window of the second Defenestration of Prague which started the Thirty Years' War. It's a long way down, they were lucky to survive.

Apse window, St Vitus'

St Vitus' Cathedral is Gothic and has a beautiful soaring nave. It's not too cluttered and for some reason it was not finished completely until 1929, so the windows are by relatively modern Czech artists, including one by Alphons Mucha, which was lovely, but I thought that all the windows were superb. The ancient Kings of Bohemia were crowned the kings here, and there is a special pulpit with a private way in from the royal residence. 

The "Golden Lane" consists of tiny houses, originally for the musketeers guarded the castle. Some are on display as they were used at various times, which was interesting s they gave you a bit of a course on Czech history.

In the evening, We had tickets for the opera (the internet is a wonderful thing!). It was Verdi's Otello, with Jose Cura in the title role, and Czech singers, Paul Vykopalova and Richard Haan, as Desdemona and Iago. They were brilliant, all of them. The love scene was piercingly beautiful.

We had brought` smart clothes for the opera, and it was an uncomfortable walk over the cobbles in high heels, which I don't like wearing at the best of times,  but the opera house is just at the far end of Wenceslas Square, so it was not worth taking public transport. And I still felt quite dowdy. There were plenty of men in black tie, and women in evening gowns, so I felt a day dress did not really cut the mustard. We might have been OK in the gods, but the seats were so cheap, by British standards, that we were in the stalls. Luckily, Vykopalova is young and attractive, and Otello is Meant to be older. Sometimes, though, at the opera, it pays to be further from the stage.

Half term trip to London

Just before Christmas, Phil spotted an offer for rooms at a new Premier Inn opening in London, close to Tower Bridge. He booked for us to take the grandsons at half term. We quite keen on Premier Inns – they make a big point of the comfort of their beds, and they are actually wonderfully comfortable: and they make a point of keeping the corridors quiet, too, so you do get a really good night’s sleep.  We’re not very keen on B & B; at the risk of sounding a pair of miseries, we don’t like having to make the effort to be friendly and pleasant to the owners and prefer the anonymity of a budget hotel.

When we got to the hotel it became obvious that lots of parents had also picked up on the offer and the place was packed with kids on half term. The boys really enjoyed staying on a hotel, especially the breakfast!  Thomas, the older grandson is more or less permanently hungry, and the younger one, Marc, had a massive breakfast and then no lunch to speak of, which was fine with us.

We toured Tower Bridge and its workings, and then Marc was tired, so I took him back to the hotel while Thomas and granddad went round the cruiser Belfast. They were shattered with going up and down so many companion ways, but I think it was the highlight of the whole trip for Thomas.

Looking through the glass walkway high on Tower bridge

H.M.S. Belfast

Next day we rushed them out and to the Tower, which they understood later, because we walked straight in to see the Crown Jewels, and by eleven o’clock the queue was all the way back to the gate into the Tower. Thomas liked seeing Elizabeth I’s pearl earrings on the crown, because he did the Tudors last year in school. They also liked the fact that the jewels have a history; they weren’t as impressed as us by the Stars of Africa. Perhaps they have less to compare them with.
There is so much to see at the Tower, too much really for Marc, and it got very busy indeed, so we gave up in the end. 

Welsh Guardsman. When the guard changed, the corporal
kept having to call out "Make way for the Queen's Guard" - and
dopey tourists still stood bang in the way.

Raven - this one seemed to like the tourists, but they have a wicked
beak on them - everyone had the sense to be cautious.

The next day was brilliant. We got the Docklands Light Railway to the Excel, and the took the cable car across the Thames, which  I highly recommend. It was a beautiful clear sunny day and the views were amazing, and the water in the docks was sparkling – it was wonderful. Then we had a quick look at the Dome, and then took a bus to Greenwich. Greenwich was great. You can’t fail to be impressed with Cutty Sark and the Naval Hospital, and the tide was right in and the river was so choppy that waves were splashing people on the pavement. That’s bound to be a success with boys. And on top of all that there was filming going on – a Michael Caine film, a follow up to Now You See It, apparently.

Canary Wharf

The Millennium Dome

Royal Victoria dock

 Then we walked through the tunnel under the Thames and got the DLR back.

We had time to pop in to King’s Cross to see platform nine and threequarters, or whatever it is – the Harry Potter thing. We would have taken photos for the boys, but there was a queue of about a hundred adults. I simply don’t get the Harry Potter thing in adults. Kids, yes – anything that gets them reading with pleasure – but really, not adults. And I speak as one who likes quite a lot of SF and enjoys many superhero films.

I have to say the boys were perfectly behaved and extremely good company, and that's not just because I'm their granny.