To Marseilles

On the way back to Marseilles and the airport we decided to visit Les Baux. Last time we visited we had all the children in tow and it was baking hot. This time we were nearly blown off the high points and the wind made it quite cold. I think more of the site is open and it is better explained. The siege engines were there last time, but this time they fired the trebuchet!

The trebuchet

 It was quite a performance and great fun. It’s really a mechanised sling shot. The projectile goes really high, but I should suppose the besiegers had to be able to get the machine close to the walls of the castle they were attacking and then protect the crew somehow. The battering ram comes with its own housing to protect the crew from projectiles of all kinds.  We had a good time, although all the courtly  love nonsense leaves me very cold.

Wandering through the village is quite fun but all the shops get very same-y. The church is interesting though - twelfth century and with a barrel vault and reused Roman pillars. Some of the side chapels are carved from the rock and there are striking brilliantly coloured stained glass windows, the gift of Prince Rainier of Monaco, as apparently the Grimaldis briefly  owned Les Baux.

From Marseilles we had a trip to the coast, at Bandol. It got a bit fraught as the traffic is so heavy.  There is a helicopter service from the airport, and now, rather than despising the celebs flown into Cannes or wherever,  I have a certain sympathy for them. Bandol, is quite a swish resort, with many yachts and some superyachts with the crew cleaning and polishing. It's slightly spoiled by parking. I dread to think what it might be like in August. We had an excellent lunch, and then drove along a rather dramatic road through the Parc National des Calanques, to Cassis. Cassis is more workaday than Bandol but very pleasant.

Beach at Cassis

View back to bandol

The following day we planned to complete unfinished business and visit Chateau d'If. We got the bus into Marseilles centre rather than try to park, and got off at the main station, which has had a big modern makeover,  but the bloke at the coffee stall immediately tried to overcharge us, and outside the station there was litter everywhere and a pervasive smell of urine. A business man advised us to stick to the main streets to the Vieux Port,  and even so, we saw beggars, some with babies, someone dead drunk or maybe just dead, and groups of young men that it seemed better to avoid.  If we told any French person we were going to Marseilles,  they all chorused "Soyez prudent! " and we see why now. I think Marseilles has gone off since we were here two years ago.

When we reached Vieux Port, the boats were not going to Chateau d'If (again!). To be fair there is a wind and a bit of a sea. 

But boats were going to Frioul, so we decided to do that, and at least pass near the prison. Well, what a brilliant decision! Frioul is on a little island, Ratonneau. There are a little group of islands, two of which, Ratonneau and Pomegues are rather larger and have been joined by a short causeway. They belonged to the military until about forty years ago but are now a nature reserve, with this little harbour and yacht marina. 

Frioul marina

They are very dry, and obviously windblasted, and only some drought- and salt-tolerant plants grow. 

A Mussel farm on Pomegues

There are some interesting birds though, and the military remains are really interesting. At the extreme end of Pomegues there is what is clearly a nineteenth century fort, but instead of cannon there are huge concrete bunkers for big guns – the sort you see in Normandy, so I’m sure they are German built, but the guide sheet we were given didn’t mention the Germans. I think they got away with it.

There’s also the quarantine hostel where the characters meet at the beginning of Little Dorrit, which got me quite excited, and spectacular views back to If, with Marseilles beyond, limestone cliffs, and navy blue sea dotted with white sails. There was no traffic and almost no noise. It was just wonderful.  Heading back into Marseilles to get back to the hotel was quite a shock to the system!

The pilots' quarters on Ratonneau- as though a boat has reversed very fast
into the island

So now we're off home and dreading getting on the scales after all the food and wine. But what are holidays for, but relaxing? And we have had quite a lot of exercise.