Jerez and Cadiz

We left Seville promptly in the morning and drove to Jerez de la Frontera. It was quite arid and nothing but olives and waste ground nearer Seville,  but later it looked much greener more productive farm land; there were quite a number of watercourses and the land was irrigated. I do like the oleander in extravagant flower all along the central reservations.

We had booked into a very traditional bodega, not one of the big ones, because the owner has a smallish art collection. (Actually, not so small, but the gallery is too small to display all he owns.) His aim is to display a history of Spanish painting, stopping short of the modern stuff; he has some Picasso ceramics, though.

Bodega Tradicion

There are a couple of Goya portraits, and an El Greco, but the less well known stuff is fascinating. There was a wonderful St Michael from the fifteenth century, with a series of elliptical curves of frame and drapery and sword, which was brilliant. It’s the first  work of the holiday that I’ve wanted to possess. Whole palaces and gardens, yes, paintings, no.

After the art, we had a tour and a lecture on sherry, which was particularly interesting because there are similarities but also marked differences from the way port is produced.

We were given lots of nibbles with the tasting, which was necessary as fortified wine does go to the head.  I did not realise that some sherries are made with special varieties of grape, which are allowed to dry almost to raisins before being pressed. We were given a taste of Pedro Ximenez (it’s named after the grape type) and it was very sweet, but full of the most gorgeous flavours.  I immediately started thinking of all the interesting ways you could use it. My mind was going over the idea of pannacotta with raspberries and a tablespoonful of Pedro Ximenez over it all; but it turned out to be sixty euros a bottle, and I’m afraid we came over mean.

We went to the alcazar, which was interesting because the aljibe – the cistern – was on show and they had rebuilt the water lifting arrangements.

Aljibe

Water lifting wheels - see the clay pots, on a long loop into
and out of the cistern.

Then lunch. The old town is delightful, and the entire population of Jerez seemed to be at one or another restaurant eating and drinking. Fortunately, I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many restaurants in a small area. We ate a beetroot salad, and then a steak in a Pedro Ximenez sauce. It was very very rich, but completely delicious.

We thought we had better have a look at the cathedral. It was much more bearable that the one in Seville, but there is still solid silver this, and gold that. There was one triumph of the jeweller’s art, set with coral and emeralds and tiny pearls to form bunches of grapes; it was so lovely, but one can’t help thinking that it wasn’t at all what Jesus had in mind.

Then, feeling we had allowed enough time and food to be sober, we drove to Cadiz. If you look at a map, you will see that Cadiz is almost an island. We crossed salt water lagoons, from which salt was being extracted, and then a quite narrow bridge. You can see quite extensive docks, and a new suspension bridge under construction.

The hotel is brilliant, just a street from the sea, which is producing a lovely cool breeze. The beach is lovely. I must say, Phil has excelled himself on hotels this holiday; I’m going to be spoiled and too grand for the sort of hotels we normally stay in in England.

Walking into Cadiz centre. Cathedral on the right. The "rocks" along the edge of the sea are not rocks, but the
remains of the sea wall.

We walked out towards the cathedral along the sea front. There is a lovely wind from the sea, and the beaches were full of people enjoying themselves; I think that Corpus Christi is a public holiday in lots of places in Spain, and as it fell on a Thursday, lots of people seem to be having a long weekend. Cadiz has a smashing atmosphere, people seem to really have fun. There are lots of flamenco places but apparently flamenco in Cadiz is much less waily and tortured, and much more cheerful. God knows, it needs to be.

Saturday

After a day in Cadiz, I must say I really like the place. It’s so cheerful and bustling. The beaches are lovely. You could have a very pleasant few days here.

Cadiz is the very tip of a peninsula, with salt marshes on the landside, so very defensible, from the land anyway, and was settled about seventh century B.C. by the Phoenicians, who developed into the Punic Empire. Then there was an important Roman town, then the Moors, and eventually it became the Spanish navy’s chief port. There’s a very interesting excavation you can visit.

Unfortunately for Spain, Sir Francis Drake and the Earl of Essex both messed the place up. Philip II had land and sea defences built, rather a case of shutting the stable door after the horse has bolted. But then the city was confined, so you get acres of old houses, narrow streets, enchanting squares, and all with virtually no motor traffic.  Everyone is out strolling, and shopping, and eating, and drinking, and gossiping – it’s lovely.

The land gate - Puerto Tierra. A large hole has been cut
through the walls for traffic. Just inside are massive
Barracks.

One of the seaward forts. 

We did visit the Central Market – well worth a visit, and lots of fast food places, with a glass of sherry at one euro – and the cathedral, which was rebuilt after Essex destroyed the old one. It took hundreds of years to get it finished. The general style is baroque, and it’s quite OK as Spanish churches go. There’s more daylight than usual. Also, Manuel de Falla is buried in the crypt.

Near the cathedral are plaques in memory of the commander of the Spanish fleet at Trafalgar, who was wounded and died at that house, and then in memory of all the other sailors and soldiers who died at Trafalgar. There is another link with the Peninsular War. Cadiz was the capital of the free Spanish government. A cortes was called which agreed a democratic constitution. Unfortunately when the Spanish King was safely back on his throne, he repudiated it. Still, Cadiz is very proud of its part.

Then off to Estepona. We drove past Medina Sidonia, as in Duke of, commander of the Armada. It’s only occurred to me on this holiday that the “medina” bit is Arab, and the “Sidonia” bit is from the Phoenician’s Sidon.

Actually the hotel is quite a long way outside Estepona. Phil was rather worried about it, as hotels on the Costa del Sol have a reputation. As we got towards the coast the degree of urbanisation – horrible housing developments, waste land, etc, got us worried. But it’s really nice – there are gardens down to the beach and the sea, and the buffet dinner was very good. I’ve already had a swim in the sea.

View from our room.